Wednesday, September 19, 2007

Lesson One In Beekeeping: Introduction To Placement & Hive Components(www.honeybeesonilne.com) 217-427-2678

Welcome To Your First Lesson In Beekeeping
We are David and Sheri Burns and we want to thank you for using our website to learn about beekeeping. Our main website is: http://www.honeybeesonline.com/ And here's our number, and we'd love to talk with you: 217-427-2678

We are happy that you are interested in beekeeping. Good for you! We think beekeeping is so fun. We need bees to pollinate our fruits, vegetables and crops. One out of three bits of food is pollinated by the honey bee. Not only do we need honey bees for pollination, but the honey is so sweet and has many proven health benefits.

Here at Long Lane Honey Bee Farms, we are committed to help you be a successful beekeeper. David is a certified master beekeeper. You may consider joining us for one of David's beekeeping classes. Click here to see our upcoming classes.

We are a family business, a turn key beekeeping operation. We manufacture the hives ourselves, hand built for you, and we provide you with the bees and all the equipment you need. We appreciate your business and you'll find we won't treat you like a customer, but like a friend. And when you purchase your equipment from us, we're here for you. You can call us with your questions. We won't leave you hanging wondering what to do. Click here to see our complete online beekeeping store.
Before we get into the actual insect, let's talk about the current hive. Beekeepers, for the most part, still use hives designed by Rev. L. L. Langstroth in the early 1850s. Prior to this, beehives were kept in what looked like up-side-down baskets known as skeps. With skeps, the comb along with the total hive was destroyed when honey was harvested. Langstroth is credited with the removable-frame hive and with specific bee space. In other words, he invented the ability to remove the frames of comb and place them back in the hive without damage to the hive or comb. Langstroth also discovered what is known now as "bee space" and is generally thought to be between 1/4"- 3/8". Anything less, they will add their glue known as propolis. Anything greater than 3/8" they will build comb.
Almost all hive boxes today are modeled after Rev. L. L. Langstroth's design with slight modifications over the years.
A typical hive consists of the following pieces, starting at the bottom and working up:

The Hive Stand
The Bottom Board
The Hive Bodies
The Medium or Small Honey Supers
The Inner Cover
The Top Cover

Today, let me explain the hive stand and the bottom board. The hive stand makes up the very bottom of the hive. However, many beekeepers do not find the hive stand necessary. I personally do not bother with hive stands. They appear impressive because they have a ramp leading up to the entrance. And some people feel this helps the bees walk into the hive. However, I have watched the bees land, and they really don't land on the ramp nor walk up all that much. Bees prefer to fly, not climb. In the natural, they don't have ramps. I would recommend not using a hive stand to reduce cost and it makes it easier should you need to move your hive.

So, in my opinion the first piece of equipment you need is the bottom board. But before we place our bottom board, we have to consider where to place the hive, the direction the hive faces and how much to elevate the hive off the moist ground. I like to use wood pallets that I can obtain free from local factories. Usually one pallet is enough, but sometimes I'll place two pallets on top of each other to elevate the hive around 5-6" off the ground.

Then, I place my bottom board on the pallet. Pallets work well, but so do concrete blocks or any structure that will elevate the hive off the ground. You want the hive elevated for two reasons: To make it less stressful on your back and to raise the hive above the moisture in the ground. Bottom boards do draw moisture and so will be the first item to deteriorate over time. So, keeping the bottom board dry will help then last longer. Plus, it also means less moisture in the hive. Elevating the hive makes it easier on your back. But, do remember that eventually you'll have lots of supers, and if you elevate the first hive body to a comfortable range, you may soon find you need a ladder when you place 5 or 6 supers on. 5-6" is a good range of elevation.

Which direction? Which direction should the hive face. It really doesn't matter. We typically try to avoid the North so that cold winter wind will not blow into the front. And we typically try to face the hive Easterly so that the early morning sunrise will get the bees out working faster.
Shade or Sun? AVOID SHADE!! Get your hive in total sunlight. This is extremely important. They can keep the hive cool. Don't worry about the heat. Shade can attract pests such as Small Hive Beetle, ants and wax moths. Place the hive in direct sunlight. If you cannot avoid the shade, try to place the hive where it will receive the most sunlight.
Let's talk about bottom boards. There are many different variation of bottom boards. In the past there was only a standard solid bottom board. Now, with the introduction of mites, we have found that screen bottom boards help reduce mite populations and the screen also improves overall hive ventilation. A screen bottom board is part of what is known as IPM: Integrated Pest Management.

There are many different types of screen bottom boards. Some are simple and some have various slots and grooves to insert sticky boards or winter panels. Get the simple screen bottom board! If you want to slide in a white board or sticky board to count your mites, you can place it under the screen. And you can make your own sticky board using vasoline. If you need to restrict the air flow when applying a medication, you can slide in a small piece of cardboard or metal.

We have put much time in designing our bottom board manufacturing to produce a simple, yet very effect screen bottom board. Our bottom boards come completely assembled with an entrance reducer cleat. Our bottom boards are designed for a 3/4" opening in the front of the hive. However, with a slight modification, the bottom board can be flipped over and a smaller opening can be used. It is not advised and if reversed, an additional piece must be added to the back of the bottom board.

Sometimes new beekeepers ask which way the bottom board goes. When the bottom board is in the correct position, the screen is up. You can see the staples going into the screen. Also, the top of the bottom board has three edges.



Our bottom boards are made very strong, routed in such a way to lock sections together and are glued with exterior glue.
Finally, the bottom board's entrance is determined by the placement of what is called the entrance reducer cleat. It is a 3/4" x 3/4" piece of wood with two different sized openings. The cleat can be turned so that only one of the openings is used at a time.

In this picture, you can see the smallest setting of the entrance cleat. When would you use this small setting? 1) When installing your package of bees. They can still come and go, but it keeps them from wanting to fly away until they nest. 2) In the winter, when you are trying to keep mice out of your hive. 3) When the hive is being robbed by another hive. There is less entrance to protect.



The next picture shows the larger opening on the entrance cleat. When would you use this setting? Anytime you need a larger opening, but don't want to open it up all the way. This could also be used for all three reasons above.
Though the pictures shows the opening facing down, please remember to have the opening facing UP! When bees die during the winter, if the opening is down, then dead bees will fill up the opening. However, if the opening is facing up the bees can still fly out over the dead bees which you can clean out later on a warm day if the bees do not clean things up first.

Once your hive is more than a few weeks old and is not being robbed and the weather is warm the entrance cleat should be removed and stored in a place where you can easily find it for future needs.
This ends lesson one. You've learned about hive location, placement and the bottom board. In our next lesson we'll discuss the next section of the hive, the deep hive body.

Now that you are considering beekeeping, we invite you to purchase all your equipment and bees from Long Lane Honey Bee Farms. We are a hard working family business located in central Illinois. I am an EAS certified master beekeeper and we are here to help. We recommend you start with two hives, so click here to see our two hive offer.

Thank you!

9 comments:

Κώστας Ελευθεριου said...

You have a very nice blogspot, iam a new beekeeper from Marathon Greece and i must learn many thinks from you.Thank you.

janielisabeth said...

could you please do a lesson on how to place the foundation frames into the hive, i have heard that there is a certian way, something to do with a Y that can be seen in the wax, but I keep not getting it and could use it written down to refer to. thanks your lessons are the best. janie

Monday's Child said...

My husband is new to beekeeping, but has spent a great deal of time studying this before his bee shipment arrived. He followed all recommendations perfectly but the bees left after only their first few days in the hive. I did notice that he faced the hive so that the opening was directly south and not east. He is expecting a new shipment of bees in May. Would you recommend facing the hive directly east? Thanks for your expertise ☺

veghawker40 said...

very useful site. One of a kind. Am a novice beekeeper from malta europe and much of what you say applies to here as well. The only thing bad in here is the green background cos its hard to read. Would you please explain which way the foundation is up and which way is down cos I cant get it right?

Brad said...

Hello, I am having some issues with a new hive I have in my back yard I installed the Bee's on April 5th and all is well except I am finding that I have an Ant problem these are very small sugar ants and they seem to be mainly trying to get into the feeder. however I am noticing some are wondering around the entrance and even in the hive its self How can I control this problem if it is indeed a problem. need input ASAP please. this might be a good lesson to add to your blog Thanks Sincerely, Brad

Brad said...

Ok I have found that a tuna can or pepsi can filled with vegitable oil around the legs of my stand has cured my anyt Problem. I tried Borax and sugarwater but I was affraid the bee's might dip into it so I quickly removed the borax mix. I did sprinkle some borax around the legs also at first Havent had any ants now for a few weeks all is well.

Bryan A. said...

If you use a screened bottom board do you have to switch it out in the winter with an un-screened bottom board to keep the hive warm?
I would think that swapping out a bottom board is difficult as the all the hive bodies will have to be moved.

Bryan A. said...

I am in the process of setting up 2 hives.
I am going to read your entire online bee lessons and ask a LOT of questions.
Thanks in advance for any help - answers you can provide!


I plan on using treated landscape timbers to elevate the hive do you see any issues with that?

I live in NC and have a big sugar ant fight all the time so to combat ants I was planning the following:
Place blocks of wood between the hive and the landscape timbers with small dishes under the wood blocks. If ants are seen I can fill the dishes with vegetable oil. This will isolate the hive from ant invasion.

Madu Raja said...

I'm beekeper from Indonesia, my blog is www.rajamadumaduraja.com Your blog is helping us indonesian beekeper too. In indonesia we beekeping too, but not like you both do. We are still traditional. We follow your blog to learn from you all. Many thanks you want to share your lesson